As our Newby Tea Ambassador, we’ve heard a lot about chef Adam Handling’s new venture, The Frog, lately – so, we were pleased to be invited down to the restaurant last night as Adam launched his newly created tasting menu. We have to declare a special interest, of course – that tasting menu combines Adam’s acclaimed dishes with our Newby Teas, some in their original form, some used in the dishes themselves, and some fermented into rather tasty kombuchas.

There’s certainly no lack of imagination at The Frog, and that’s evident before you even sit down to dine. The feel is industrial, slightly stark – as befits its location in innovative Shoreditch. Less a traditional restaurant, more a creative space, The Frog’s walls are lined with a set of intriguing artworks (from up-and-coming London artist Josie Appleby at the time of our visit), and Adam welcomes submissions from others looking to exhibit. It’s all part of the plan to keep The Frog fresh, inspiring and ever-changing. The décor may be dominated by the eponymous amphibian, but mismatched furniture and the graffiti wall suggest a more chameleon-like quality. It’s clearly a place that will evolve over time – just 6 weeks after opening, it’s still in a nascent stage, and we wouldn’t be surprised to see more changes of style as The Frog grows in stature and confidence. The menu we came to sample was a great showcase of the ingenuity Adam and his team are becoming famous for. Make no mistake, the ambience may be casual, but the food is anything but – this is precision on a plate. Following a glass of kombucha, made with Newby’s exquisite Chinese white tea, Silver Needle, an opening round of beetroot (an ingredient edging towards signature status in Adam’s case) hinted at what was to come, scoring top marks for texture and presentation. Next up were small-but-perfectly formed crispy shells of salt cod, followed by a cooling bowl of crab, apple and dill. Adam’s chosen accompaniment – a kombucha made with our very own Jasmine tea – exhibited a floral flavour which didn’t overpower a delicate dish. Things got even better with a subsequent serving of hake with limestone potatoes and tarragon – a combo which got us discussing the possibility of returning for a full-sized portion sometime. This course was paired with a Newby Flowering Tea, adding a decorous dimension to this unanimously recommended fish dish. What came next was, arguably, the highlight of the night. Lamb, artichoke, sour cream and garlic, paired with a hot consommé made with our Assam tea. Using tea in a sauce or gravy (unpretentious Handling is unlikely to speak of a jus) is another of the special touches seen in Adam’s repertoire, and it definitely works in this case. You really could drink that stuff by the glass – which, conveniently, is how it’s served. The flavours of this awesome dish virtually dance off the plate. Big appreciation from the Newby delegation there, largely expressed in the form of silly facial expressions and ecstatic yummy noises. No time to bask in the afterglow, mind… Things didn’t let up when it came to our dessert: burnt honey, toffee and malted milk, with a glass of Rooibos Orange kombucha. Another winning combination, evoking all kinds of nostalgic memories. Handling is known to look back to his (frankly, distressingly recent) childhood for menu inspiration, and he has recalled some gorgeous flavours with this one. A final cup of our peppermint tea is poured, ending a satisfying and diverse meal, all cooked up in view of diners, open-kitchen style. With plans for more Frogs to spring up across town over the coming years, Adam Handling has ambition as well as enviable talent, and London can only benefit from both. It may not be easy being green, but the relaxed ambience of The Frog sure makes it look that way.